How to Gift Wrap a Sheep – Eid Al Adha – Gurban Bayram

Today is Eid Al Adha, the second of the two major Muslim holidays.  It occurs at the end of the Hajj (pilgrimage to Mecca).  One of the rituals is to sacrifice an animal, usually a sheep or a goat, and use the meat to feed 7 poor families.  This is in commemoration of the Prophet Ibrahim’s (Abraham’s) willingness to sacrifice his own son when commanded to do so by Allah/God.  As you can see, many of the stories of the Christian Old Testament are shared with Islam.

At the time we lived in Baku in the late 90’s they were gradually beginning to celebrate the Islamic traditions after a long period of Soviet control when religious traditions were discouraged.  In Azerbaijan they call this holiday Gurban Bayram.  I’ve been looking through my old photo albums and came across this photo and an accompanying letter I sent to family back home.  I thought I’d share it with you.

“This morning, on the way to school, we saw lots of sheep being herded about.  Outside the American Embassy two guys were manhandling one like a wheelbarrow – each was holding one back leg.  After I’d done a bit of shopping downtown, I walked back home and saw a white Volga parked outside the entrance to our stairway surrounded by a crowd of about 15 people.  I think it was the family of the Police Chief who lives on the fourth floor.  When I looked inside the open trunk there was a huge ram with a big red ribbon on its head and red paper “petals” stuck all over it.  A gift-wrapped sheep! 

They were happy for me to take this photo, but language difficulties made it impossible for me to enquire what was going on, so when I got upstairs I peeked over the balcony to watch.  Two men who had delivered the sheep lifted it out of the car and offered it a drink of water.  Then they made it look in a mirror before cutting its throat right over the flower bed next to where we park our car.  They caught some of the blood in a small bowl and went round putting a dab of it on everyone’s forehead.  The spectators then went inside while the two men proceeded to skin and butcher the animal inside Chiefy’s garage. 

All there is now is a large pool of dried blood in the flower bed and a leg of lamb hanging in the doorway of the garage, which I guess is all that’s left.  Interesting, even if to us it seems rather gruesome.  And no, we’re not having lamb chops for dinner tonight!”

Eid Mubarak!

Forever Expat

“The harsh reality is that you are forever going to feel like you don’t belong,” says Robin Pascoe in her book Homeward Bound, speaking about the tradeoffs we make for the many benefits of expatriate life.  That blunt statement hit me right between the eyes with the certainty of an undisputed truth.

In the Afterword of the same book, Dr Kirsten Thogersen, a clinical psychologist, agrees, “There is no way you will every again be assimilated with a group of people who have not been travelling like yourself.” 

For the past 14 years I’ve lived as an outsider and been very happy, so why should I expect it be any different now that I’m home?  I believe it’s an acceptable price to pay for all the amazing experiences I’ve had as an expat.  Although it’s tempting to think those who haven’t travelled must be boring, many of the people I met in other countries hadn’t travelled either and I found them fascinating.   I may never fully assimilate, but people at home lead interesting lives just as the locals I met overseas did. 

And yes, I guess I am still trying to convince myself, but reading Robin’s book has certainly helped me a great deal and I strongly recommend it to any expatriate, even those who don’t go home, as eventually everyone settles somewhere and will go through the whole expatriate-withdrawal process.

Since returning to Canada 6 months ago I have started this blog, connected with many involved in the expat world through social media and starting volunteering with Families in Global Transition.  I had thought these were a temporary means to “hang on” to the expat life I’d left behind and perhaps I was being a bit desperate and sad.  But reading Robin’s book has made me realize that’s not the case.  Even though a chapter of my life may have ended, expatriate life will always be a part of me.  I am a forever expat.

Queuing Horizontally

There’s nothing like jumping a queue to get Canadians riled up.  I live in a nation that prides itself on equality and social justice and which is also renowned for its patience and good manners.  Right now everyone is frothing at the mouth about stories in the press about famous and influential people being immunized against H1N1 ahead of everyone else.

I can’t help thinking it’s a good job all those outraged citizens don’t live in Baku, Cairo or Dubai.  One thing that I have learned from living in other countries is that most people in the world don’t queue.  Or as a friend once put it, they do queue but horizontally, ie shoulder to shoulder, side by side at the counter, instead of the orderly line we expect.

I remember the first time I entered my local post office in Cairo.  It was a scene of total chaos, crowds of people at every teller’s window, and in the middle of the room, sitting on benches, a few hapless souls who had given up all hope of ever being served.  Unable to able to read any of the signs, I proffered my airmail envelope to the guard by the door and shrugged my shoulders in the universally understood question “What do I do?”  He waved me to a scrum of people in the corner. 

I bravely shouldered my way into the middle of the group, and soon found myself completely wedged, unable to move in any direction and at 5’3” almost completely invisible.  But after what seemed like an age a knight in shining armour came to my rescue, in the form of a tall, elderly man standing behind me.  With a firm shove he propelled me forward a foot or two, while at the same time shouting over the heads of the crowd to the teller and pointing down at my head.  I don’t know what he said, but the meaning was clear “Hey, serve this poor foreign woman next!” 

A brief pantomime at the teller’s window, involving her punching numbers on a calculator and me proffering the contents of my wallet and I was out of there.  There was only time for a smile and a quick “shukran” to the chivalrous gentleman, now pinned against the counter himself.

I can’t say I have ever mastered the art of queuing horizontally, despite now having had many years of experience.  My British/ Canadian heritage is just too strong.  It’s like haggling, something else I’m completely hopeless at.  But that’s the subject of another post . . .

Choosing your Currency

There’s an article today in the Telegraph about the impact of currency fluctuations on British pensioners living overseas.  The rate of exchange against the Euro has changed by as much as 30% in recent years.  The article also mentions the issue of bank charges on money transfers.

These are both important issue for working expatriates, not just pensioners.  A couple of years ago, while living in Dubai and being paid in local currency, I calculated my husband’s salary had lost 20% against the Canadian dollar in two years.  These are big numbers, so how can you protect yourself?

When negotiating a contract, give considerable thought to the currency you want to be paid in.  Many companies offer a choice, some will even divide your salary and pay portions in two currencies.  Think about what you are going to be doing with the money.  A certain amount you’ll need for local expenses - that is best paid in the local currency, but anything left over you may want to send overseas.  Perhaps you have expenses back home that you need to cover, related to a property you own, or supporting a still-dependent child or relative.  Or maybe you’re saving money to buy a property when you return, for your child’s higher education or your retirement.  It makes most sense to save that money in the currency in which you intend to spend it. 

So get out your pencil and calculator and start working on a budget.  If you can be paid in two currencies, decide how much you want to be paid in each.  If you can only choose one currency, then consider in which one most of your money will be spent and choose that.  If you have no choice at all, then get out your crystal ball and plan if and when you’ll move money into another currency.  At least keep in mind the possibility of currency swings when planning your overall budget.

As for bank fees for transfers, do your homework.  Sending money overseas through online bank transfers is certainly the easiest method, but may be more expensive than you think.  Check not only the fees but the exchange rate you receive.  Local currency exchanges or even specialty exchanges, like the one quoted in this article, may give you a much better deal.

Good News for Expats

Three things I’ve seen on the internet today suggest that expatriate numbers are on the increase.

1. International Tuition Services is reporting increased enrollment at international schools in Hong Kong
2. ISC Research is also reporting increased enrollment at international schools in China, India, Indonesia and The Netherlands
3. ExpatWoman is tweeting about record numbers at their newcomer coffee mornings in Dubai

Is the economy rebounding or are companies that reduced their expatriate staff now finding they cut too deep?  Either way it’s good news for expats.